Almost two weeks ago,in the heart of Marais—a quartier once occupied by Juif (Jews), then by Chinese immigrants, now by homosexuals—where prodigy goes low-key, I encountered this restaurant in a tiny street several blocks north from Pompidou Centre. Fresh, dynamic and cheerful is my first impression of this small “coin” of decors in green, white and grey; and then, of gourmandise.
A no-typical vegetarian restaurant, however, is a paradise for people who loves veges. A small carte offers seasonal creations along with several classic items. Vegetables are treated separately and thoughtfully: the fresh beets slices bring in a natural sweetness as well as vivid colors to the emulsion of foie gras.
Along with the foie gras, I ordered another classic on the carte as my main dish. And this ris de veau, which turned out to be the highlight of the meal, slightly seared with tender moist inner part , juxtaposed with purée to pomous—a relative of pomplamousse, but more acidic, came with two separated bowls of assorted veges(carrote, turnip) and of cappuccino de pomme de terre. I particularly love the preparation of ris de veau, the earthiness perfectly round up the sharpness of its accompany—one of the best version I have ever had.
A brief conversation with the chef—Claude Colliot and his kitchen members revealed his approach towards cuisine—-it’s more about integrating his personal pleasure and passion into his cooking, conveying his concept on to the plate and playing with his favorite ingredients. Hearty, energetic, and playful, Colliot’s cooking reminds me of childhood games, a jolly adventure, playful and fun.
It might reminds me some quotes from Newton in responding regarding his immense contribution to Classic physics:
I was like a boy playing on the sea-shore, and diverting myself now and then finding a smoother pebble or a prettier shell than ordinary, whilst the great ocean of truth lay all undiscovered before me.
Comparably, it’s this spontaneity and incessant efforts in discovering the magical power of unknown food resources, in introducing new idea that sets Claude’s cooking apart, rather than the intention to establish an unsurpassable height of culinary achievement. This approach of genuine and genious, for me, is apparently more reverent.
petits divers: Monsieur Colliot’s clients’ lists are really starry: Marion Cotillard, Sofia Coppola, Quentin Tarantino ou Mélanie Laurent….
Menu: 55-70€, A la Carte: 70-90€